Arriving in Angra do Heroismo, to have your warps secured by a seriously attractive woman and then be treated to a breakfast of scrambled eggs is not a bad way to begin your stay in this World Heritage city. The marina wasn't here when I anchored in the harbour in 1998 with my son Daniel. I think the build shows a degree of sensitivity to fit with it surroundings and I am pleased they retained a good piece of the beach.
By comparison with Horta and Velas, Angra paving is not quite so good but their Cathedral, churches and public buildings are much grander.
The stem cell reseach scientist and mathematician, Jim and Becky, are the couple who welcomed me on arrival at the visitors pontoon and you would be very hard pressed to find a more interesting and lovely couple. Certainly I have not on my travels. They did what I did in my Contessa 12 years ago -popped over in their Rival 34 s/v Rona from the Shetlands to enjoy a bit of sun in the Azores. In reality they had a bit of a testing time but came through smiling and the better sailors for the experience no doubt.
I had got to know them in Velas and was so fortunate to continue to enjoy their company. We prepared each other some memorable meals and swapped stories over extended night caps. An early event we shared was the bull running.
The 5 smartly turned out guys try to prevent serious injury to the few brave souls who encourage the bull to go for them. He doesn't need much encouragement as he has been cooped up in a transit box, had brass caps screwed on his horns and ropes tied around his neck, none of which are good for his temper. In any case he's probably done this a few times before and is keen to toss a few of these 2 legged creatures dancing around in front of him. Videos played in shops and cafes show scenes where people are tossed about, some pretty badly hurt.
I like the picture of the 5 restrainers leaping over the fence just in time!
Our next adventure was a tour of the island by scooter which I reckon is the best way to see the countryside and is less economically challenging. Jim led the way as Becky could navigate from the back so I had an easy ride. From behind Becky looked rather like ET and I could see the reaction of guys sitting around at the roadside-a lot of heads tuned in unison as we passed!
The wine museum at Biscoitos was interesting with artifacts that showed how wine was made locally. The stone vat in the picture was hand carved from the solid as were the cone shaped pressing weights. Vines were grown in small enclosures protected by stone walls and ground warmth retained with bassalt stones.
In the same museum there was an example of rope made from whale ligament demostrating that nothing from the whale was wasted.
Not far from the volcano we visited in the centre of the island was an area of steam vents. I found this active demonstration of being on top of the Atlantic Ridge a reminder of the earthquake I experienced in Horta in 1998. It made entering the volcano a little disconcerting but the staff told me that there were no rock falls there during the large quake that severely damaged Angra in the 1980s.
The tour took in some recommended view points and other features that caught our eyes. A wonderful experience.
The harbour in view is Praia do Vitoria where I will lift out for the winter in October. Some view!
Hedges and stone walls to protect the crops .
It was very tough to say good bye to Jim and Becky who had been such wonderful companions-they say grown men don't cry-well I've got news for you! They sailed to Flores and on the way saw Northern Bottlenose Whales.
