Trinidad to Grenada 15 December 2010

I had a strong desire to leave Trinidad not least to get sailing again. Anchorages there are limited, the air quality is poor and sea pollution unhealthy. All the signs were that there would be suitable weather for the passage north on 15 December. Chris Parker a weather guru warned of squalls.

Two other yachts were leaving the same day and plans were discussed over coffee after clearance from customs and immigration. The passage through the Bocas to the open sea was straight forward in calm conditions allowing time to stow warps ,fenders and put a reef in the main. As the open sea neared it was clear sea conditions were rough. Once out there the winds strengthened, gusting to 32 kts with very short choppy and confused seas. Sometimes the bow platform dug deep into breaking waves and I was soon drenched. I had to motor sail to stand a chance of keeping to the course but after a couple of hours things improved enough for me to start sailing, now with double reefed main and yankee. Gradually the wind veered enough for me to maintain a course well east of the desired course, always a good thing given the variable conditions and strong west going current.

In the middle of the night the wind dropped so much I couldn't sail the course and once again the iron horse was called up. Before long though the wind returned and now I was going to arrive before first light. I had to heave to off the southern end of Grenada before entering Prickly Bay as the sun came up. Not the most enjoyable sail and you will understand why I failed to produce any pictures on the way.

PREPARING PLANE SONG TO LAUNCH

My return flight to Trinidad 9 November was direct as damage from hurricane Tomas had made BA's crew change in St Lucia impractical which meant I arrived in daylight at Plane Song. During her layup Plane Song was fitted with an airconditioning unit over the fore hatch which kept the interior dry and free of mildew and made living aboard for the next month more comfortable. Equally beneficial was the shrink wrap cover over the topsides which minimised damage to the varnish work.

The first job was to fit new engine mounts and crankshaft seals. This was done with the engine suspended from a bar across the companionway. Other work was needed once the engine was lifted and it was certainly the right time for the work to be done. Naturally the job took twice as long and cost 50% more than estimated. To add to the financial strain I then discovered were on the way out having given 8 years service. In the time available I had to fit AGM batteries which are likely to give the best service.

One leftover job from earlier in the year was to inspect and clean the paraffin supply tank which a crew member had topped up with 30 litres of water. This involved dismantling the quarter berth roof and aft bulkhead along with the SSB ATU. A couple of days work in the tropics. Earlier efforts to remove the water via the vent tube had been reasonably successful as there was very little to clean up. But then it only takes a small amount to block the cooker burners.

And then there were the ants-the little fire ants whose sting is painful and if scratched the blisters go septic.

I was stung so much whilst I was rubbing down the hull that I had the yard move PS to a better spot. There was a nest inside one of the blocks supporting the keel. I was well advised when PS was put on the hard to grease everything that would provide a route onto the boat. Once aboard these guys are not inclined to leave.

I was not the only one under attack. A nasty bug got into my laptop despite the usual defences. Getting this put right was not a simple task in Trinidad. A further complication was a glitch with the Wirie wifi booster which had worked in the UK. This was not finally resolve until I met up with the designer on his boat in Grenada. The system is very effective and unlike many of its rivals supported by user friendly software. The after sales support I enjoyed was outstanding.

PS was launched 9 December and once again it was a skillful and efficient operation. I docked in the small harbour at Peake's to bend on the sails and provision. The mechanic made the final alignment check on the propeller shaft. I started passage planning for the sail north to Grenada.

PUTTING PLANE SONG TO BED FOR THE HURRICANE SEASON

Trinidad is considered to be outside the hurricane belt although there was one in 1934. During my earlier stay in Trinidad I took a look at the 3 main yards where I could leave Plane Song during the hurricane season. Basic costs were very much the same but Peak's yard seemed the best organised and so I booked a place and a date for lift out on 21 June.

After a week at the Trinidad and Tobago Sailing Association anchorage I moved to the small dock at Peak's yard where I enjoyed having the benefit of the PS's air conditioning and very good showers and toilet facilities.

Weather on lift out day brought difficult conditions due to strong wind from the south which quickly raised a big swell. However, by early afternoon conditions were good enough to enter the lift out dock. Once secured, the team took over and I would say that it was the most caring and efficient lift out I have ever experienced. For example 2 divers were used to ensure the slings were in the right place. Once washed down, PS was transferred to an amazing low loader which moved her to her berth and then deftly set her down on blocks at the chosen place. Very impressive indeed.

Given the rain, the power of the sun and the amount of varnish work on PS's topsides, I decided to have her shrink wrapped. Additionally, I have rented an air conditioning unit which is fitted over the fore hatch. This will reduce the chance of mildew in the high humidity that prevails here. A particular problem here are ants which make determined efforts to set up home on yachts. Not sure if this is a strategy to colonize the world, but it is necessary to take care to foil their efforts to get aboard. The most effective barrier is grease so cables, support stands and blocks all have to have a ring of grease. I have met cruisers who have got ants aboard and had them for years unable to get rid of them.

If I owned a yard like Peak's I would have a large yacht with a private dock and a permanent maintenance crew. This is exactly what Mr Peak enjoys. He was kind enough to let me have a look over his impressive yacht.

I'm pleased I gave myself lots of time to get things organised because although there are very good facilities for yachts, it pays not to be in a hurry. There are quite a few jobs on my list which include canvas work for sun and rain protection, lifting the engine to have a new seals and mounts, as well as some work on the sails. Then there is all that varnish.

I promised a picture of Pelicans which I regret I failed to capture diving. The insect visitor to PS passed away peacefully in the cockpit which was rather less traumatic than had it crashed into me.

In a few days I return to the UK. After 9 months aboard, sailing nearly 6000 miles and visiting 9 countries, some adjustment to the change of life style will be necessary. I will continue the diary when I return to Trinidad in the autumn.

Grenada and on to Trinidad

From Chatham Bay Union Island it was a brisk 10 mile sail to Hillsborough on Carriacou where I checked into Grenada. I then moved round the corner to Tyrrel Bay which is a very well protected anchorage. After two days I set off for St George Grenada. About 10 miles SW of Carriacou there is a submerged active volcano which was in action about ten years ago. It's shown on the chart as Kick-em -Jenny and has a 1.5 mile prohibited zone around it and a 5 mile red alert zone. It is well monitored and there is a web site to check the alert state. Passing so close to an active volcano is a new experience and I was pleased when it was astern.

The 38 mile passage was typical for this region but sadly lacking in any marine mammal sightings. I dropped the hook in St George's anchorage. I thought I was well dug in sand and a good tug in reverse satisfied me that all was well. During the first night winds got up to 20kts and the GPS was showing larger positional changes than the normal range but I was well clear of any other yachts. Next morning I snorkelled the anchor which had left drag marks of about 50 feet and was on hard broken coral. I reset it and this time visually checked the CQR was well dug in which for some reason I neglected the first time.

A few days later I discovered the Grenada Yacht Club was offering a discount of 1 day free for every 2 paid for. Given that the daily rate was about £12 this enticed me to take a berth. It was a good move as the club has all the basic facilities and helpful friendly staff. Having resident Customs and Immigration checking out was simplicity itself. I met some interesting people most noteably Harold La Borde for whom I made a separate entry.

St George is almost a town of two halves connected by a tunnel which rather alarmingly is used by traffic and pedesrians. Hurricaine Ivan's [2004]handiwork is still much in evidence with a number of prominent buildings still without roofs. The C of E cathedral and parliament buildings are but two of more than a dozen that I saw. On the local radio I heard that the Australian Government had agreed to build them a new parliament. I wondered what we the British were doing for our former colony. It was noticeable that the catholic cathedral also severely damaged had been repaired.

I organsed a trip with some German cruisers to Fish Friday at Gouyave some 15 miles north of St George. They set up stalls in one of the side streets offering a wide range of samples of different fish cooked on the spot, mostly very tastey and excellent value for money. The taxi ride however was not a pleasant experience-not for the faint hearted.

Because of the threat of pirates it is now possible to submit a Float Plan to the Coast Guard in Grenada and Trinidad to let them know your plans which I did. Before setting off for the 80 mile passage to Trinidad I stopped off at the anchorage to clean the propeller which had a fine collection of barnicles. A German couple on a ketch Wanderer2 teamed up to sail in company.

The wind was predicted to be east with a touch of south south east at first, around 15 kts reducing to 10 kts within 24 hrs. Someone got it very wrong and within 3 or 4 hours after setting off rain squalls produced 25 kts of wind and by nightfall I must have been in a tropical wave front with winds now in the 25 to 30 kt range and gusting for periods to a full gale. Putting in a second reef in 25 kts in the dark was testing. PS does well in the heavy seas. There was a moment of excitement when a large fishing vessel with nets out came straight for me then turned away just before there would have been a real crisis-I had done everything to get out of his way. It turned out that Wanderer2 had the same treatment.

By first light some 15 miles off the coast of Trinidad the wind shifted so the best I could do was head east to make the angle to head for Boca de Monas, a gap in the islands that leads to Chaguaramas. The passage plan suggested a 15 hour trip which turned into 22 hours. I took a mooring with the help of a charming Dutch lady who got in her dingy to assist. I discovered the next evening when she and her husband came over for drinks that they had been run down by a freighter the same night that I sailed south only a few miles from my track. They were exceedingly lucky to have survived. Had they been 10 feet further on they would have been cut in two. As it was they were struck at the pullpit and bounced down the side if the ship. Their yacht is very strongly built but they estimate around £8000 of damage.

I now have plenty of time to get organised for the haul out later in June. The rainy season is now underway. There was serious flooding from the storm I encountered and the harbour is awash with flotsum and rubbish. There are also a lot of Frigate Birds, a bird I have been fasinated to watch. It is the supreme bully taking food off terns and other diving birds. Aerobatics are second nature to this large bird which can also soar with the best of them. I notice it does not try its luck much with Pelicans another bird I love to watch. I'll try to get a good picture of them too.

Meet the Circumnavigator Harold La Borde

I happen by chance to be berthed next to Hummingbird III A 53 ft ketch built by Harold La Borde, a Trinidadian. Harold now in his seventies, is an extraordinary man so I have decided to write a special entry to tell you a little about him. Not only has he circumnavigated, he has done so twice and each time in a yacht he built himself. By way of a warm up he built a 26 foot yacht which he sailed to England as a young man without any of what we might consider the basics such as an engine,electrics, sink or toilet! He tells the story in his first book An Ocean to Ourselves published in 1962.

Hummingbird II, a 40ft yacht he built himself took him and his family round the world. He wrote of his experiences in All Oceans Blue , published in Trinidad in 1977. For their exploits he and his wife were awarded the Trinity Cross[Gold], Trinidad's highest award.

To build Hummingbird III took 8 years and was launched on his birthday in June 1983. Harold his wife Kwailan and eldest son set off in May 1984 to follow the southern route around the world, used by the clipper ships. This involved rounding the 3 great capes: Good Hope, Leeuwin and Cape Horn. His third book Lonely Oceans South, published in 1989 records his experiences.

Now he sails Hummingbird III up to Grenada every year for a few months to the Yacht Club at St George to potter about and do a little maintenance. He has been doing his long enough to be an honorary member of the club. It was a great privilege to have him aboard Plane Song and listen to his stories, told simply with great modesty. A rare and very likable man.

Bequia to Union 11 May 2010

Another wonderful sail in near perfect conditions broad reaching in calm seas making 7 knots without trying. The island of Canouan had been my chosen destination but with a bit of north in the wind the pilot suggested it might be problematical anchoring so I decided Chatham Bay Union Island would be a wiser choice.

Enterprising individuals have set up restaurants and bars to entice the cruising community and they range from shacks to one beautifully built establishment.

The only drawback to this wonderful away from it all anchorage were the charter catamarans some of which were loud and lacking common sense when it came to anchoring. But the swimming was fantastic and shared with a resident turtle who wasn't too put out by the humans. I had a meal at the thatched restaurant a few feet from the waters edge gazing at Plane Song whilst the sun set with an amazing range of colours.

Union is the southern most island of St Vincent and so it was necessary to clear here before entering Grenada. Clearance is done at Clifton which by boat would involve a 4 mile motor into wind and waves to a small crowded harbour. I decided to walk there over some impressive hills and get clearance to leave the following morning. How nice it was to get some real exercise. The customs lady couldn't believe I had walked. Not much to say about Clifton except I was able buy the biggest mangoes I have ever seen call Imperial. Great flavour and not at all stringy but to eat a whole one was a real test!

From Union it is but a short 10 mile hop to Carriacou to clear into Grenada.

St Lucia to Bequia 8 May 2010

The pictures are not in a logical order but at least they are labeled. Maria's cafe is where I write this blog-some view!

Anchoring spots don't come much better than Harmony Bay.

The anchorage at Harmony Bay St Lucia to Bequia is a 55 mile sail so I started at 0500hrs and decided to sail on the eastern Atlantic side of St Vincent. Too late I discovered that this may not have been the best choice as the wind shifted to SE making it a close reach in choppy seas. I made Bequia a little before last light and was able to select a good anchoring spot.

At the north end of St Vincent there is a big mountain that does funny things to the wind on the lee side of the island and was the main reason why I elected to sail the windward side of the island.

I plan to visit some of the many islands in the Grenadines as I head south back to Trinidad where I have booked a haul out on 21 June. If the wind permits I would like to get to Tobago but generally that would involve a hard slog to windward against the current.

Back to St Lucia

The sail south to the marina at Marin developed into a hard beat to windward across the southern end of Martinique, made more testing by wind over tide. Chris Doyle's guide is very helpful with detailed descriptions of the entrance channel and the numerous anchorages in the Cul de sac du Marin. There are several hazards for the unwary with one or two abandoned yachts to make the point.

I wasn't quite prepared for the sheer scale of the marina and the number of yachts at anchor nearby. Yachts were anchored very close to each other and in places obscuring the channel buoys. I guess the it was a question of shortening the dingy ride to the minimum. I had not booked into the marina and had to wait a few hours for a berth to be available which are all stern or bow to with a buoys to pick up at the critical moment. Being on my own, I asked for help and got a tender with bow fenders to push me about and a couple of guys on the pontoon so it all worked well.

The place was a messy builders yard with very minimal shower and toilet facilities which were so far away that careful planning was needed to avoid being caught short. Never have I seen so many catamarans in one place all for charter. Mono hulls were definitely in the minority. The best thing I can say about my stay was I could stock up on some nice wine and eat fresh baguettes every day.

The sail back to St Lucia was a joy but apart from flying fish I saw no marine life. My problems began at Rodney Bay because I arrived on May Day and apart from a few security staff there was no one on hand to help at the marina. As a frequent visitor I know my way around the place so all was well in the end. The main reason to come back was to book flights back to the UK after PS is hauled out in Trinidad. No cheap flights from there.

My plan is to leave 7 May, overnight in Harmony Bay and then make a very early start for Bequia which could be a 60 mile sail.

April 2010 St Lucia and Martinique

The pictures show in reverse order the north end of St Lucia, Diamond rock at the southern end of Martinique, Plane Song on the move and the beach at Anse Lane Martinique. The top picture is of an almond tree on the beach at L'Ane. I spent time drawing it over a beer or two! I haven't got the hang of placing text and pictures on the blog so this time I'm trying pictures first!

It was soon apparent that Mary was not going to have a good holiday sharing PS with Gail who was then paid off at some cost. Days later when we were at Harmony Bay, I discovered the parafin supply tank had been topped up with about 30 litres of water by Gail when she was asked to fill the water tanks while Mary and I attended to our arrival at Rodney Bay. Unfortunately, I was unaware of this and topped up the pressure tank which then clogged up the cooker when it was next used. As a result we had to cut short our stay and head back to Rodney Bay marina where I spent about 2 days dismantling the cooker and cleaning everything. The supply tank still has small amounts of water in it despite efforts to drain off the water, so I will have to remove most of the quarter berth to get access to the tank inspection plate-another two days work which will wait until lift out in Trinidad. Some people do not pay attention to instructions and repeated warnings about taking care filling water tanks.

The parafin incident limited what Mary and I could do but it was lovely to have her company in paradise for 3 weeks. She made it back to the UK just in time before the disruption caused by the volcanic dust from Iceland.

After many delays I finally had the lazy jacks fitted and some minor canvas work completed. I decided finding reliable crew was too much hassle. Distances between islands are in anycase quite small with only one, between Grenada and Trinidad, being more than a day sail. My first solo from Rodney Bay to Anse de Mitan Martinique was in perfect conditions. Checking into the island has to be the most simple and pleasant of all the places I have called at so far-a simple form on the computer in any of several locations around the island.

Anse de Mitan was not quite as I expected it to be despite having talked to a number of yachtsmen who had visited the anchorage. I took a dingy trip a mile round the corner to Anse L'Ane and found a really beautiful spot with very few other visiting yachts. There is a well stocked little super market where I can indulge my love of camembert and baguette. Wine is very keenly priced too. Sailmail HF connections are good in the evening and there is free wifi from a cafe from where I can see PS at anchor. Paradise is slightly spoilt by day mosquitoes and fast ferrys but its hard to imagine a better anchorage.

The view of Diamond rock is included because of its facinating history. St Lucia and Martinique have changed hands been the English and French many times in the past. At one time the Royal Navy managed to put a detachment of about 120 marines with canons on the rock who caused havoc to French ships. Some 12 thousand French troops never managed to dislodge them from what became HMS Diamond Rock. A cock up with resupply from St Lucia ended the saga.

From here I will head south to Anse de Miran which has many anchorages within it and the only large marina on the island. All the big hyper markets are there so it will be a joy to provsion!

St Lucia [Part 2]

Exploring St Lucia[Part 2]

Mary and I sailed south from Rodney Bay to Harmony Bay a couple of miles from Soufriere the former capital of St Lucia. Here Mary was able to try out her own new snorkeling gear. There isn't much interesting coral but there is enough fish life to make it worth the effort.

A few years ago Hotel Chocolate bought the Rabot Estate with the aim of rebuilding cocoa farming on the island which went into decline as banana growing increased. They want to produce their own estate grown chocolate and are investing in new trees and processing facilities at the same time selling trees at cost to the local farmers. The trees produce beans suited to make the finest dark chocolate. To verify the the quality of the trees they raise, Reading University analyses samples using DNA technology. Mary and I had the incredible luck to be able to tack on to the last but one guided tour of the estate booked a long time ago.

At one stage of the tour we were shown how grafting is done to maintain the quality of the trees. Mary produced one which will be planted with her name on it!

We walked the 2 miles down hill to the anchorage stopping at the famous Ladera Hotel for a fruit cocktail which has the most spectacular view of the Pitons.

St Lucia

We watched the cruise ship depart Castries. There were two others in this small harbour and they departed one after another. I wondered how the town managed to cope with so many visitors. The palm frond hat and bird were made to order on the beach by a very skillful man.

The beflagged boat is operated by a fruit seller who plies his wares around the marina and Rodney Bay