Carriacou and Bequia Jan 2011

The Tyrrel Bay anchorage was more crowded than I expected but then it was the beginning of the high season. A few of the yachts were well known to me from Trinidad and Grenada. Charter catamarans from the north, mostly French flagged, made up the majority. Some are crewed and mostly know safe anchoring techniques but even so they do like to get up close and personal. The holding in the bay is not very good and a friends' yacht dragged some 200 metres whilst they were ashore. Thankfully they returned in the nick of time before their anchor would have lost contact in the increasingly deeper water as it drifted away.

At a beach side cafe where I left the dingy oars for safe keeping when ashore, I noticed a tiny nest in a plant hanging from the roof inside the building. A pair of humming birds had raised young and now one of them was returning to take the goats hair from the nest to build another. All this inside a busy cafe.

We stayed 9 days before there was some relief from the strong trade winds. I thought it would be nice to go the Chatham Bay on the west side of Union island which involved checking in at Clifton just 6 miles north of Carriacou. Wind and current through the channel made for a rough passage and Clifton harbour is not very inviting so I elected to carry on to Bequia. By passing close to Mayreau it was possible to make the 15 mile passage north in one tack.

Admiralty Bay Bequia is one of my favourite anchorages despite the difficult holding on compacted coral. It took 3 attempts to get the anchor to hold and it was still necessary to re anchor the next day. The main anchor on Plain Song is a 45 lb CQR and it is not well suited to such a sea bed. The Trades continued to blow fresh to strong gusting to 25kts and more, mainly at night. I detect a patten over a 4 day cycle in which the winds build and then decline briefly with winds at night a few knots stronger. There is not much variation in wind direction which is usually east or east north east but sometimes unhelpfully north east.

The bay is busy with charter yachts heading south or returning north to their base. There is plenty of room but they like to bunch up close to the lovely beaches. We experienced a close call when a large catamaran dragged its anchor passing within 10 feet in the middle of the night. That same night the dingy detached itself. It was a particularly dark night with no moon and I discovered its disappearance at the time of the dragging incident. I spent the rest of the night wondering how it could be replaced-a logistical nightmare. At first light, to my astonishment, I could see it tied to the stern of a yacht anchored 300 metres astern. The rescuer,an Englishman, had seen the dingy passing and immediately dived in to catch it. The odds of a successful outcome to this sorry event must be astronomical and I showed my gratitude with some good wine and a contribution to his cruising fund. Since then Mercury Man the outboard, who has been very troublesome, runs smoothly-perhaps the thought of his fate in the open ocean has brought about a change of character.

Not all the visitors are chartered catamarans. Lovely to see a Dutch sail training ship and several of the sailing cruise ships not to mention a fellow Shannon 38, albeit ketch rigged.

Although this is my 3rd visit to Bequia, I still find new delights. A recent find was some really stunning hand made silk prints featuring beautiful geometric pattens in subtle colours by a French artist. She is in her mid 80s and has lived on the island for many years. I visited her in her studio which has spectacular views over the bay. The photos hardly do justice to her work.

Another find was two brothers who make model boats often commissioned by visiting yachts. They work with a small range of simple tools, using mostly local timber, in a small very basic workshop. I had a happy time talking with them and may be able to help by putting them in touch with makers of model ship parts in the UK.

On the subject of wood, you may be interested to know that the wonderful sandy beaches lapped by the warm blue sea have a darker side to them. Some are shaded by the Manchineel tree. Its leaves, bark and fruit can make life very unpleasant.

My original plan was to transit the Panama canal and head west but the difficulties of finding good crew and the magnitude of the commitment called for a rethink. The attractions of the San Blas islands were strong enough for me to plan to go there via the ABC islands but I failed to give sufficient thought to returning east. Further research and advice from experienced cruisers has made me decide against that long haul east as the sailing back would be a serious challenge. So now I intend to rough it in the Windward and Leeward island chain until the start of the hurricane season and then head south to the ABC islands staying there until late November. Then I will head north again up the island chain and around early May 2012 head for the Azores.

In the meantime life is very pleasant and fulfilling here in Bequia. Next stop will be St Lucia.

Christmas in Grenada

There is a choice of bays to anchor in on the southern end of Grenada and each has its merits and disadvantages. For my purposes Prickly Bay was best which I was able to see for myself when I visited most of the others on social calls.

Christmas was 10 days away when I arrived giving plenty of time to settle in and meet new people. For the day itself I signed up for a "pot luck" lunch and for a contribution I made a potato salad which I'm pleased to report was soon snapped up. A great time was had by all. I was very pleased to meet up with Dan and Cindy, Canadian friends, who when we left Trinidad in company had had the good sense to turn back and sailed the next day in much greater comfort. On my way back to PS I was invited aboard a nearby yacht for drinks but still managed to climb aboard PS before dark. Skype kindly provided contact with family and friends including my brother and sister and their families in London. Skype's inventor should be nominated for a Nobel Prize and a Knighthood.

There was some drama among the cruising community when a 28 foot yacht, home to an elderly couple was reported overdue. They remained overdue until their Pan Pan call was picked up by a radio ham. It was heartening to see how effectively the cruisers rallied round to alert ham nets, various maritime SAR Agencies and support the rescue when they were located. Both had been injured but thankfully not too seriously.

I joined a group to travel up the west coast by bus to Victoria which puts on a food festival to celebrate local cuisine. I liked a breadfruit bake and some fairly conventional chicken dishes but most of the traditional dishes would not have me seeking a second helping. Still, it was a great outing and it was nice to mix with the local community including some keen fans of the England football team. It seems there are still a few left.

The reliability of the tender and its outboard at an anchorage is fundamental and mine let me down just before new crew were due to arrive. The result was a lot of rowing and tows from helpful friends. The Avon suffered from a dirty valve mechanism and the outboard from contaminated fuel.

Geva, short for Ginger, flew into Grenada and had a little time to settle in and celebrate the New Year before the more serious business of sailing PS. Having owned a yacht herself she soon learned how everything worked on PS. Mastering the Taylors paraffin cooker has been the cause of some grief to others but Geva got to grips with it soon enough.

A weather window for the passage north to Carriacou appeared 6 January and we set off in good time for the 35 mile passage. Headwinds, unhelpful seas and the west going current did exactly what the guide books described. So 51 miles and 12 hours later we set the hook in Tyrell Bay, Carriacou. The trip gave Geva the chance to experience PS under sail and motor in a range of conditions. She is the first crew I have had learn straight away to handle the Monitor wind self-steering gear.

We now await fair winds to progress north towards Bequia, as currently the Trades are blowing fresh to strong for a few days.

Trinidad to Grenada 15 December 2010

I had a strong desire to leave Trinidad not least to get sailing again. Anchorages there are limited, the air quality is poor and sea pollution unhealthy. All the signs were that there would be suitable weather for the passage north on 15 December. Chris Parker a weather guru warned of squalls.

Two other yachts were leaving the same day and plans were discussed over coffee after clearance from customs and immigration. The passage through the Bocas to the open sea was straight forward in calm conditions allowing time to stow warps ,fenders and put a reef in the main. As the open sea neared it was clear sea conditions were rough. Once out there the winds strengthened, gusting to 32 kts with very short choppy and confused seas. Sometimes the bow platform dug deep into breaking waves and I was soon drenched. I had to motor sail to stand a chance of keeping to the course but after a couple of hours things improved enough for me to start sailing, now with double reefed main and yankee. Gradually the wind veered enough for me to maintain a course well east of the desired course, always a good thing given the variable conditions and strong west going current.

In the middle of the night the wind dropped so much I couldn't sail the course and once again the iron horse was called up. Before long though the wind returned and now I was going to arrive before first light. I had to heave to off the southern end of Grenada before entering Prickly Bay as the sun came up. Not the most enjoyable sail and you will understand why I failed to produce any pictures on the way.

PREPARING PLANE SONG TO LAUNCH

My return flight to Trinidad 9 November was direct as damage from hurricane Tomas had made BA's crew change in St Lucia impractical which meant I arrived in daylight at Plane Song. During her layup Plane Song was fitted with an airconditioning unit over the fore hatch which kept the interior dry and free of mildew and made living aboard for the next month more comfortable. Equally beneficial was the shrink wrap cover over the topsides which minimised damage to the varnish work.

The first job was to fit new engine mounts and crankshaft seals. This was done with the engine suspended from a bar across the companionway. Other work was needed once the engine was lifted and it was certainly the right time for the work to be done. Naturally the job took twice as long and cost 50% more than estimated. To add to the financial strain I then discovered were on the way out having given 8 years service. In the time available I had to fit AGM batteries which are likely to give the best service.

One leftover job from earlier in the year was to inspect and clean the paraffin supply tank which a crew member had topped up with 30 litres of water. This involved dismantling the quarter berth roof and aft bulkhead along with the SSB ATU. A couple of days work in the tropics. Earlier efforts to remove the water via the vent tube had been reasonably successful as there was very little to clean up. But then it only takes a small amount to block the cooker burners.

And then there were the ants-the little fire ants whose sting is painful and if scratched the blisters go septic.

I was stung so much whilst I was rubbing down the hull that I had the yard move PS to a better spot. There was a nest inside one of the blocks supporting the keel. I was well advised when PS was put on the hard to grease everything that would provide a route onto the boat. Once aboard these guys are not inclined to leave.

I was not the only one under attack. A nasty bug got into my laptop despite the usual defences. Getting this put right was not a simple task in Trinidad. A further complication was a glitch with the Wirie wifi booster which had worked in the UK. This was not finally resolve until I met up with the designer on his boat in Grenada. The system is very effective and unlike many of its rivals supported by user friendly software. The after sales support I enjoyed was outstanding.

PS was launched 9 December and once again it was a skillful and efficient operation. I docked in the small harbour at Peake's to bend on the sails and provision. The mechanic made the final alignment check on the propeller shaft. I started passage planning for the sail north to Grenada.

PUTTING PLANE SONG TO BED FOR THE HURRICANE SEASON

Trinidad is considered to be outside the hurricane belt although there was one in 1934. During my earlier stay in Trinidad I took a look at the 3 main yards where I could leave Plane Song during the hurricane season. Basic costs were very much the same but Peak's yard seemed the best organised and so I booked a place and a date for lift out on 21 June.

After a week at the Trinidad and Tobago Sailing Association anchorage I moved to the small dock at Peak's yard where I enjoyed having the benefit of the PS's air conditioning and very good showers and toilet facilities.

Weather on lift out day brought difficult conditions due to strong wind from the south which quickly raised a big swell. However, by early afternoon conditions were good enough to enter the lift out dock. Once secured, the team took over and I would say that it was the most caring and efficient lift out I have ever experienced. For example 2 divers were used to ensure the slings were in the right place. Once washed down, PS was transferred to an amazing low loader which moved her to her berth and then deftly set her down on blocks at the chosen place. Very impressive indeed.

Given the rain, the power of the sun and the amount of varnish work on PS's topsides, I decided to have her shrink wrapped. Additionally, I have rented an air conditioning unit which is fitted over the fore hatch. This will reduce the chance of mildew in the high humidity that prevails here. A particular problem here are ants which make determined efforts to set up home on yachts. Not sure if this is a strategy to colonize the world, but it is necessary to take care to foil their efforts to get aboard. The most effective barrier is grease so cables, support stands and blocks all have to have a ring of grease. I have met cruisers who have got ants aboard and had them for years unable to get rid of them.

If I owned a yard like Peak's I would have a large yacht with a private dock and a permanent maintenance crew. This is exactly what Mr Peak enjoys. He was kind enough to let me have a look over his impressive yacht.

I'm pleased I gave myself lots of time to get things organised because although there are very good facilities for yachts, it pays not to be in a hurry. There are quite a few jobs on my list which include canvas work for sun and rain protection, lifting the engine to have a new seals and mounts, as well as some work on the sails. Then there is all that varnish.

I promised a picture of Pelicans which I regret I failed to capture diving. The insect visitor to PS passed away peacefully in the cockpit which was rather less traumatic than had it crashed into me.

In a few days I return to the UK. After 9 months aboard, sailing nearly 6000 miles and visiting 9 countries, some adjustment to the change of life style will be necessary. I will continue the diary when I return to Trinidad in the autumn.

Grenada and on to Trinidad

From Chatham Bay Union Island it was a brisk 10 mile sail to Hillsborough on Carriacou where I checked into Grenada. I then moved round the corner to Tyrrel Bay which is a very well protected anchorage. After two days I set off for St George Grenada. About 10 miles SW of Carriacou there is a submerged active volcano which was in action about ten years ago. It's shown on the chart as Kick-em -Jenny and has a 1.5 mile prohibited zone around it and a 5 mile red alert zone. It is well monitored and there is a web site to check the alert state. Passing so close to an active volcano is a new experience and I was pleased when it was astern.

The 38 mile passage was typical for this region but sadly lacking in any marine mammal sightings. I dropped the hook in St George's anchorage. I thought I was well dug in sand and a good tug in reverse satisfied me that all was well. During the first night winds got up to 20kts and the GPS was showing larger positional changes than the normal range but I was well clear of any other yachts. Next morning I snorkelled the anchor which had left drag marks of about 50 feet and was on hard broken coral. I reset it and this time visually checked the CQR was well dug in which for some reason I neglected the first time.

A few days later I discovered the Grenada Yacht Club was offering a discount of 1 day free for every 2 paid for. Given that the daily rate was about £12 this enticed me to take a berth. It was a good move as the club has all the basic facilities and helpful friendly staff. Having resident Customs and Immigration checking out was simplicity itself. I met some interesting people most noteably Harold La Borde for whom I made a separate entry.

St George is almost a town of two halves connected by a tunnel which rather alarmingly is used by traffic and pedesrians. Hurricaine Ivan's [2004]handiwork is still much in evidence with a number of prominent buildings still without roofs. The C of E cathedral and parliament buildings are but two of more than a dozen that I saw. On the local radio I heard that the Australian Government had agreed to build them a new parliament. I wondered what we the British were doing for our former colony. It was noticeable that the catholic cathedral also severely damaged had been repaired.

I organsed a trip with some German cruisers to Fish Friday at Gouyave some 15 miles north of St George. They set up stalls in one of the side streets offering a wide range of samples of different fish cooked on the spot, mostly very tastey and excellent value for money. The taxi ride however was not a pleasant experience-not for the faint hearted.

Because of the threat of pirates it is now possible to submit a Float Plan to the Coast Guard in Grenada and Trinidad to let them know your plans which I did. Before setting off for the 80 mile passage to Trinidad I stopped off at the anchorage to clean the propeller which had a fine collection of barnicles. A German couple on a ketch Wanderer2 teamed up to sail in company.

The wind was predicted to be east with a touch of south south east at first, around 15 kts reducing to 10 kts within 24 hrs. Someone got it very wrong and within 3 or 4 hours after setting off rain squalls produced 25 kts of wind and by nightfall I must have been in a tropical wave front with winds now in the 25 to 30 kt range and gusting for periods to a full gale. Putting in a second reef in 25 kts in the dark was testing. PS does well in the heavy seas. There was a moment of excitement when a large fishing vessel with nets out came straight for me then turned away just before there would have been a real crisis-I had done everything to get out of his way. It turned out that Wanderer2 had the same treatment.

By first light some 15 miles off the coast of Trinidad the wind shifted so the best I could do was head east to make the angle to head for Boca de Monas, a gap in the islands that leads to Chaguaramas. The passage plan suggested a 15 hour trip which turned into 22 hours. I took a mooring with the help of a charming Dutch lady who got in her dingy to assist. I discovered the next evening when she and her husband came over for drinks that they had been run down by a freighter the same night that I sailed south only a few miles from my track. They were exceedingly lucky to have survived. Had they been 10 feet further on they would have been cut in two. As it was they were struck at the pullpit and bounced down the side if the ship. Their yacht is very strongly built but they estimate around £8000 of damage.

I now have plenty of time to get organised for the haul out later in June. The rainy season is now underway. There was serious flooding from the storm I encountered and the harbour is awash with flotsum and rubbish. There are also a lot of Frigate Birds, a bird I have been fasinated to watch. It is the supreme bully taking food off terns and other diving birds. Aerobatics are second nature to this large bird which can also soar with the best of them. I notice it does not try its luck much with Pelicans another bird I love to watch. I'll try to get a good picture of them too.

Meet the Circumnavigator Harold La Borde

I happen by chance to be berthed next to Hummingbird III A 53 ft ketch built by Harold La Borde, a Trinidadian. Harold now in his seventies, is an extraordinary man so I have decided to write a special entry to tell you a little about him. Not only has he circumnavigated, he has done so twice and each time in a yacht he built himself. By way of a warm up he built a 26 foot yacht which he sailed to England as a young man without any of what we might consider the basics such as an engine,electrics, sink or toilet! He tells the story in his first book An Ocean to Ourselves published in 1962.

Hummingbird II, a 40ft yacht he built himself took him and his family round the world. He wrote of his experiences in All Oceans Blue , published in Trinidad in 1977. For their exploits he and his wife were awarded the Trinity Cross[Gold], Trinidad's highest award.

To build Hummingbird III took 8 years and was launched on his birthday in June 1983. Harold his wife Kwailan and eldest son set off in May 1984 to follow the southern route around the world, used by the clipper ships. This involved rounding the 3 great capes: Good Hope, Leeuwin and Cape Horn. His third book Lonely Oceans South, published in 1989 records his experiences.

Now he sails Hummingbird III up to Grenada every year for a few months to the Yacht Club at St George to potter about and do a little maintenance. He has been doing his long enough to be an honorary member of the club. It was a great privilege to have him aboard Plane Song and listen to his stories, told simply with great modesty. A rare and very likable man.