Wednesday, 24 March 2010
Given the trade winds had been light for a few days I decided to sail north up the east or windward side of St Vincent to reach the southern tip of St Lucia. The benefit of this was to avoid the erratic and often very strong winds encountered on the west side of the island caused by the valleys and mountains. Sam joined us in his Shannon 51 foot ketch. We kept together all the way north although by the halfway stage Plane Song began to overhaul the larger yacht. We both took some action pictures en route on what turned out to be a wonderful sail in near perfect conditions.
We checked into St Lucia at Vieux Fort which has a container port and the main airport where Mary would land two days later. It was the easiest check in todate and best of all didn't incur any charges unlike any of the other ports of entry. The town itself is very poor but does have a reasonable supermarket to stock up at. The anchorage suffered from blustery winds and junk on the sea bed which snagged anchors on at least 2 yachts including PS.
Mary arrived on time laden with all the many things which can only be obtained in the UK. The next morning we set off for the Pitons with Sam and Semezana for company. It was a memorable short sail with only the main up we covered the ground at over 11 knots at one stage with 4.5 of current underneath us. To add some spice we had to round up into 34 knots of wind to get the main down.
The Pitons which I suppose are volcanic plugs are truly spectacular. Mary had her first taste of snorkeling and was greatly impressed. Later we toured what is billed as a drive in volcano and bathed in hot sulphurous baths-my first bath for 6 months! It was a wonderfully relaxing experience. Later we dined at the Harmony Beach restaurant which has the most spectacular view out over the bay.
Thursday, 11 March 2010
Prickly Bay was no more than a convenient stop over. On a walk about we did manage to find a bar hidden away that had happy hour all day long but of course the real attraction was the free wifi. After a couple of days we moved up the coast to a small anchorage called Dragons Bay which has a nice beach and quite good little reefs to snorkel. This was my first proper swim in the Caribbean. Grenada has much to recommend it and the intention is to spend more time exploring the island on the way back to Trinidad.
Sailing north to Carriacou the next day was quite a test. Anabatic winds off the mountains produced winds varying from 17 to 38 knots. Fortunately the sail plan of double reefed main and yankee coped with this and the boisterous seas that came with the winds. We made good progress but it was a very wet sail. Several of the yachts we knew in Trinidad were anchored in Tyrrel Bay-Black Cat-Slow Dancing- Kijiro. To get a feel for the place we hired Simon and his taxi and toured the island. There are some stunning sea views and I was impressed by some wooden boat building on the beach with very little more than hand tools.
A couple of buildings caught my eye on the tour-a little house clad with cedar tiles and the post office-for those unfamiliar with London it has one of the largest sorting offices in the world called Mount Pleasant. We joined up with friends for a meal and listened to a steel band-some danced, some played dominoes with the locals and some just watched and took it all in.
Jason Lara John Gail Bruce
Our next port of call was Admiralty Bay Bequia just a half day sail north from Carriacou. It turned out to be a near perfect sail with 15-20 knots on the beam with an almost flat sea and of course hot sunshine. Sailing doesn't get much better than this. Of all the places visited so far this is certainly tops of the list. A beautiful anchorage, friendly people and all the basic facilities needed.
We hired a scooter to tour the island which is small enough to complete in half a day. At the north end of the island we stopped at the turtle sanctuary set up by the remarkable Orton King.
He raises the young Hawksbill turtles native to this island and releases them on beaches when they are old enough at 4 to 5 years to defend themselves and mature into adulthood. The females return to the same beach 25 years later to lay eggs. Why does he have to do this ? Locals still hunt them and eat their eggs despite it being illegal-old traditions die hard.
Shannon owners tend to spot each other in an anchorage. We had a get together with family and crew of a 51 and 43 foot Shannon in Admiralty Bay.
I am always interested in trees and this venerable Almond tree caught my eye. If people want to meet up in Bequia they just say under the Almond tree as it is so well known.
Tuesday, 2 March 2010
For a variety of reasons, not least to be able to attend my son Daniel's wedding in August, I decided not to continue into the Pacific this year. Finding somewhere safe to leave Plane Song en route as well as the cost of a return flight were key factors. So I was delighted that Gail Isaacs joined me on 23 Feb from Miami to crew in the Leeward Islands. With a firm plan it was now possible for Mary to join me mid March in St Lucia for some well earned sunshine.
We set off from Trinidad for Grenada during the evening of 27 Feb. Before I left I filled a Float Plan with the Coast Guard just in case we had any problems with the pirates who operate from Venezuela. Once clear of the coast, the wind settled at around 18 kts from the east and progress was rapid with one reef in the main, staysail and yankee. I sailed as close to the wind as was comfortable to make some easting so that the later part of the passage could be sailed on a beam wind. This also helped to counter the west going current which is very noticable at the southern end of Grenada.
Some 20 miles off the coast there is a gas field with 2 large platforms lit up like the proverbial Christmas tree. Most of the time we were making about 6.5 knots in a moderate sea. The swell increased as we closed with Grenada at dawn. The whole trip from TTSA took about 15 hours. Entering the anchorage at Prickly Bay on the southern tip of Grenada was not difficult despite a number of hazards. The atmosphere is very different from Trinidad-clearly the locals take a pride in their island and make an effort to welcome the cruising community. Despite the form filling checking in was a pleasant experience.